Saturday, November 21, 2009

Back Home

We've been home a week now, adjusting to the NW November weather and time change.  We had a great trip, varied experiences from ultra urban cities to wetlands wildlife, and of course my return to Paraguay.

It was wonderful, and sometimes awkward seeing the people I worked with back in Pilar.  It seemed as if 25 years had evaporated seeing the teachers I had worked with, until of course their children, that were once under seven years of age appeared as fully formed adults, some with children of their own.  Pilar is now larger with new neighborhoods, more people, more paved streets and infrastructure: cellphones, television, internet, motos, but the feeling is still tranquilo and the people are warm and generous in opening their homes and hearts to you.

I met the new PC volunteers in Pilar, and in this new PC with cellphones and internet access I'm hoping to assist Joan, one of the volunteers, in getting some libraries started in the schools and town.  She has started the groundwork with proposals and requests for some books, but has a long road ahead to get appropriate reading materials and community support.  Therefore, what I am requesting from friends and family this year instead of holiday gifts for me, would be either books or donations for to me purchase appropriate books for the children of Pilar.  If you want to provide books, the schools are most in need of early childhood picture books in Spanish.  Thanks so much for your help with this.  Coming home to house filled with books, book club gathering and memories of all my childhood reads has made me more cognizant and appreciative of the gift of reading.

I'm also attaching links to more photos of our journey for those of you not able to see them on Facebook.    http://picasaweb.google.com/sarahg59

Wishing you all a Happy and Healthy Holiday Season!

Love, Sarah 

Monday, November 9, 2009

Tudo bem? Tudo bom.

All is well and good, but being among speakers of Portuguese, in tropical heat, now with flowers, leaves, water, mosaics, and beauty all around, we've become less verbal.







Figurine at Pousada Santa Clara on Boipeba

I realize that I have not written about food. Much has been bland. On the bus in Paraguay, the anise seed I encountered in every fourth nibble of chipa was thrilling; chipa is usually uniformly boring, as well as dry. In Foz do Iguazu, Sarah and I went out for pizza and chose the "Paulista" (Sao Paulo style with heart of palm and peas), I think because it was vegetarian and also because I could not imagine that plain canned peas would be used. The canned peas dried out less in the oven than you would expect and were impressively vile.
In Salvador, we were able to sample traditional foods. Acarajé is made from bean massa (blackeyed peas). The same product steamed in banana leaves, abara, has the appearance and texture of a perfect mudpie (very fine particles, just enough water to stick together, firm enough to cut). It was bland with a faint unpleasant undertaste (probably dried shrimp). I liked acarajé fried.

Sarah says that she liked acarajé and that she suspects that I am writing something unfair about it, so here is a quote about the importance an virtues of acarajé. I have read that acarajé is not only a traditional food in Bahia and Ghana, it is associated with the Candomblé religion.

"Acarajé belongs to the cult of Iansá. Iansá is the Lady of the Winds and the flash of lightning. It represents freedom in the figure of the wind. It corresponds to Saint Barbara in the Catholic Religion. She carries a scimitar, her colors are red combined with white and her ritual greeting is EPAHEI!
Acarajé is made and sold by women in Bahia and has been declared "heritage culture" of this region of Brazil. "




Figurine at Pousada Redfish in Salvador

Jenniferi

Wednesday, November 4, 2009

More thoughts on Paraguay from Salvador

Sorry I haven´t been able to post photos along with my blogs, but I´m old school compared to Jen, who is able to blog and upload photos from her iPhone, while I must wait until we have computer access, and most don´t allow for camera card uploads, so you´ll just have to wait until I get back home for the photos.

We´re now in Salvador, Brasil which has been a fun city by day to explore, but it´s quite dangerous at night, so we´re back at the hotel and I thought I´d catch up on blogging and finish some of my thoughts on Paraguay.  The politics have certainly changed in the fact that one can now openly discuss politics, and we even saw a small demonstration in Asuncion, but as for real change, vamos a ver.  I spoke with the 2 physicians I had worked with (Asuncion & Pilar) and asked them what they thought of President Lugo, and they both said that he essentially has no power.  One said he would have been more effective continuing to preach (if it weren´t for those kids he fathered), and they both feel he doesn´t have the political support or savvy to truly effect change.  One of the physicians even said that Stroessner´s grandson is high up in the Colorado Party waiting to make a move after Lugo is out.  Vamos a ver.

I can´t see a lot of change in the mindset of the people, and a lot of that is still ingrained from early childhood where the education system is still a very closed system, with rote lessons, few or no books, and discipline versus inquiry.  I was saddened to find the few deaf students that I had gotten enrolled into school that are now young men in their 30s that still can´t read or write, and are doing menial tasks.  However, they are from poor families and I´m not sure if all the members of their family can read or write, so perhaps my hopes and expectations were too grandiose.  They at least seem happy and are embraced by their families and the folks in town.

I was quite pleased to find Senora Molina, the mother of 10, four of whom had developmental disabilities, and to see how well she was.  She reported that her daughter that dutifully rode Raul, a young boy of 9 or 10 with cerebral palsy to school, every day on the back of her bike and learned the home exercises to do with him, is doing well in Argentina, where she became a massage therapist so she could do the work that Sarah did to help people.  She was such a good sister and daughter that it truly touched me to hear the news.  Unfortunately Raul passed away about 7 years ago, but his older brothers that I also worked with are doing well, hanging out with the old guys, sweeping the sidewalks and sipping terere.

Jen and I met the two PC volunteers in Pilar, and they are working with the schools and local government, facing some of the same frustrations that I did 25 years ago.  Yet they are in a whole new generation of PC, where all the volunteers have cell phones and some even have internet access.  Joan talks to her boyfriend back in the states every evening via Skype.  I can´t even imagine what PC would have been like with that kind of potential connectedness to the world and home. 

Our last night in Pilar, we met an Irishman, Julian Bloomer, who is pedaling all around the world, taking a sabbatical of sorts from his previous teaching job at University in Ireland.  He has had quite the adventure up to now, and seems to have the strong legs and easy manner to complete his journey.  See the link to his blog on the sidebar.


The one thing I hadn´t prepared myself for and I don´t know why I hadn´t, but I was totally at a loss for words when the first questions from Mami and Marcella were, ``Are you married?``  Rather than replying with a simple yes or no, I stuttered and ended up by saying ``Mas o menos``.  It was that old feeling of not being valued because I wasn´t married and didn´t have kids; that despite my work, and my relationship and family that I couldn´t share with them, I was somehow less.  At least the Paredes were totally open and accepting, which was quite refreshing and rewarding. Asi es.  It has made for some odd experiences travelling, where people never think of us as a couple, we get hotel rooms with 2 double beds, and can not show any signs of closeness.  Oh well, es como es.

Monday, November 2, 2009

Acalaca, limpkin, ocelot, puma

Southern Pantanal


10 days ago Carolina from Rio photographed 3 or 4 jaguars at Refugia do Ilha, but we came a few days after the flood, early this year, began. With the flood, clear water rises and spreads and the wildlife that depends on it disperses. Wild hyacinth sends up floating rafts to reproduce. We still saw amazing birds and mammals. Sarah has the best photos on her camera and they will be uploaded eventually.























Dogs in a field near where the parrots come to roost; they chase no animals

Jennifer